The heat of the sun presses upon your neck. You feel the sweat dripping down your brow. The smell of the farmlands and vineyards you are walking through seems like a crowd of people around you. You ask yourself again why you decided to hike up these terraced vineyards and rocky paths. You ask yourself why you chose to do it in late July when the temperature is a brutal reminder that you are not from here. You are from a cold place; a place where the sun is gone for half of the year. Then the path turns away from the farms and runs along the backs of them. The cool shade of the trees is sudden and inviting. The sunlight is now dappled and almost magical. You walk a little further, inspired by some change in the air. You are no longer struggling up an incline, but coasting along a rocky path – a path that has now supplied you with a light breeze. A reward for your efforts. You turn a corner and see it in front of you, in all of its majesty. There sits the jewel of blue. There below you lays the beautiful Mediterranean. The great sea sends up gentle breezes to reward you and cool you from the jealous sun which tries to blind you to its beauty. The water dances and plays in the sunlight as you look on – transfixed by its beauty. You have made it through the first part of the path through the Cinque Terre. You have been rewarded by a stunning view. On to the next town. On to another beautiful site. On you press. Remembering why this was worth it. The reward of this adventure is the adventure itself.
The ones who took the train seem well rested by the time you arrive in Vernazza. But you and the ones who hiked are hungry and thirsty. You also cannot wait to get into that water. So off come the shirts and shoes and in the water you all go. It’s beautiful. It feels like heaven on earth. It feels like something from a dream of what summer should be. The smells of food linger in the air as you swim. The voices in Italian are like a love song which your ears strain to understand, but which your heart knows only too well. This is why you came here. This is what you came to do: love the sun, love the sea, swim, hike, sweat, drink, and eat. You came to live.
Walking the path between Monterosso al Mare and Vernazza was a beautiful and amazing experience. It is one which I will never forget. Bring water. Bring a few Euros for the man in the cave selling lemonade and limoncello. He is on the Monterosso side, about half way up the climb. It is hot work, but not really that difficult if you are in shape. I was a pack-a-day smoker when I made this climb - and I made it. Just take it easy and bring a couple of bottles of water. It gets hot in late July. Always remember: it's a journey, not a race.
